>>280 Anon how do I clean the trigger assembly on my Glock. I have the basic field strip down. But past that I don't know. And this booklet is piss useless. Would it kill them to have a blown up parts diagram?

>>280 Why is remington ammo such godawful terrible fucking worthless fuck.

>>281 Going from brain memory as opposed to hand memory: >Knock out the frame pins >Stick your finger in, curling the tip toward the muzzle end to grab the locking block >Pull it up and out (kinda at a slant, you'll see how it moves) >Once its out, grab the trigger and push it up into the frame to make it poke out the top, while you separate the linkage. Wiggling will likely be necessary. >Grab the now-poking-up trigger assembly and pull it out the top of the frame Easiest way to clean it is to fill a bowl with a 50/50 mix of hot water and Simple Green or Purple Power and drop it in to soak for half an hour. This is how I deep clean most parts and small assemblies that I don't want to take clear apart. Swish it around and wipe it down, but don't let it air dry. Hose it down with WD-40 (Water Dispersant) to keep the rust bunnies away afterward. Then let it dry a bit, and reinstall by pushing it down into the frame, reconnecting the linkage, and once its nice and seated squish the locking block back down into place and line the pin holes up, then put them back in.

>>282 Most Remington brand ammo is made by Union Metallic Cartridge. They've cheaped out on powder and primers since the panic set in, but they're usually pretty good. At least compared to Winchester/Olin. I like Federal, or Armscor for cheap stuff.

>>283 Ahh gotcha. Trying this tomorrow. Gotta get some WD-40. Cool. Thanks man.

>>280 Anon I wanted a second edge on my boot knife, so I grabbed a knife sharpener and went for it. So how the edge is wavy? That means I fucked up right? Does it not matter? Still sharp as hell.

>>286 I'm not a knifemaker but I do a bit of metalworking (mostly lathe/mill). That wavy pattern is a fuckup on your part, yes. Is it going to matter for a knife that sees little in the way of hard, regular use? No. Do be cautious though, as double-edged knives are illegal to carry in a lot of states.

>>287 Yes important to note. For the record I checked my state laws before hand. Well fuck. So how to not fuck up in the future?

>>288 As a private fag without a shop with wood and tools to make a guide and a big grinding wheel, and as a non-artist who would have a rock-steady hand with a dremel tool, your best bet would be the old fashioned way. A big, very coarse whetstone to start the edge, a set of smaller, progressively finer whetstones to finish it, a magnifying glass to check your work as you go, and a good amount of time. I've known pro knifemakers who could bang that shit out freehand on a bench grinder, first time every time, but that sure isn't me.

>>289 Gotcha. Good to know. Good thread. Alright thoughts on Ballistol?

>>290 Never used it, but all that fancy shit turns out to be a meme, in my experience. Remember Fireclean? I've yet to find anything that truly cleans better than water/Simple Green or truly lubes better than classic red oil. If you're in a hurry just slather some Breakfree on it. A gun is a machine, and while it needs lubrication the specific kind you use isn't very important as long as it gets in the right places and stays on the metal. A gun isn't an engine that runs at 4k RPM, for instance.

>>291 Well said anon. Yes. Well I am out of questions for now. But I wind up with about 5 every day it seems.

Are there any lubricants/greases you guys recommend or is the 5W-20/30 with Mobil 1 Grease pretty much the go to for a lot of guns? Got any horror stories too since I always like to hear shit about people asking for ammo for unspecified guns or blowing up their shit with wrong ammo or Bubba's Pissin' Hot Loads.

>>361 OP likes red oil. I use Marvel Mystery Oil, hoppes 9, and ballistol. Mostly cause my grandad left me his kit.

>>361 OP here. Classic red oil is a 50/50 mix of 5w40 detergent motor oil and automatic transmission fluid, then adding just enough Marvel Mystery Oil to make it the right level of runniness for gun oil. It is basically liquid ball bearings. Variants of the mix date back to the Second World War. It has no cleaning properties, but is the most amazing gun lubricant you'll ever use.

>>363 I was curious. I should have asked last week. Gotcha okay.

>>363 Oh and those remington thunderbolts shot fine. No idea why the clerk kept calling them shit. No ftf at all.

>>365 Supposedly the Thunderbolt lineup is pretty bad with how much lead it dumps into your barrel alongside the powders being much dirtier than even a CCI standard velocity. Hopefully the Hornady buyout of Remington will help them with their QC since I've been trying to read up reviews on modern UMC & Thunderbolt ammo to get a gist of how they handle now.

>>367 >with how much lead it dumps in your barrel Oooo. Didn't think of that. Well it's a good thing I clean after every range trip I guess.

>>280 Anything cool on the horizon, and or gun news?

>>398 Not really. Marlin should be cranking lever actions out again after the first of the year, and I'll be starting a project soon to refurb a 90 year old industrial drill press for my shop.

>>399 God I want a marlin. Or a henry golden boy. That project sounds interesting as hell. Bet that's gonna be fun.

Do you guys ever get cool projects to refurbish or try your hand at restoring like old milsurps? I'm pretty excited at seeing if I can restore to working order a Jap Type 99 rifle that was in the transitional stage from early-war to last ditch.

>>427 I try to avoid "restoration projects." A major part of the collector's value of any classic gun is graded by "percentage of original condition and finish remaining." Even if the gun is 90% rusted over, the 10% of the finish that remains makes it worth more than if you stripped it down and restored it all to look new. All you have if you do is a pretty shooter with no collector's value. I do perform a fair bit of "refurbishing" though. This involves leaving the remaining original finish while removing surface rust while leaving the rust stains to prevent further oxidation and pitting, and replacing broken parts with original or period-correct parts to get the gun functioning again. I did up a Garand for a guy like that recently.

>>429 Fascinating. How difficult is it finding period correct replacement parts? And do you have any pictures of a refurb project? How do you remove the rust and leave the old finish?

>>433 About the only source for period parts are Numrich or my network of friends around the country. It can be a real pain, and that's why a job can sometimes take months. There's an old smithy's trick to removing rust without damaging surviving finish. You soak the part in a solvent oil like CLP. Then you go find an old penny from before 1970, and you take that penny and go to work on the oil-soaked rust just like you were scratching off a lotto ticket. The alloy in those old pennies is harder than rust but slightly softer than bluing, and you'll see the oil smearing around and turning brown. You do this for a while then wipe the oil/rust sludge off with a clean cloth, and repeat the whole process until all the rust is gone. I don't usually take pics of my work, but I am working on a restoration and customization of a Smith and Wesson model 16-4 right now. Maybe I'll take some and post about it when my new taps come in.

>>436 Cool good to know

>>280 Is there any real proof that magazines should be rotated? As in for my edc should I switch all my rounds to another magazine every couple months to let the springs rest? Do springs really wear out that quickly?

>>509 So springs in a mag barely wear out at all. That's an old fudd tale. What does wear out are the feed lips on the top of the mag, which curl out slightly over time from the constant force of the spring pushing rounds up against them. The stainless steel reinforced polymer feed lips on Glock magazines is the real reason for Glocks "legendary" reliability. They deform at about 10% the rate that a normal all metal or poly mag does. tl;dr: Yes, rotate and/or underload your magazines, just not for the reason you think.

>>511 Fascinating. Well shit, guess I'm gonna do that now then. Thanks bro. The more you know eh?

SoyGoy here. When can we get blasters? I want my plasma lazor guns plox!

>>514 Best I can do for you is Gauss, check out thread >>405 Heads up it sucks donkey balls like a man dying of dehydration. What's so cool about plasma anyway? That shit malfunctions and your hands melt off, plus you probably die. Just go to your local gun store and look at some rifles, handle a few, and see the coolness up close and personal like. If you are still deadset on spacetech, then buy a tazer or the gauss rifle. I really stress that there are better options available though.

>>280 I am too embarrassed to buy a gun, I don't even have a drivers license (had a bad experience my parents teaching me and my parents don't trust me learning from someone else.) because I was a neet for a long time. Now I have a part time job. I wish my parents weren't too controlling

>>545 Well you need at least a state ID, and no felonies, and you must be over 18. Don't be embarrassed, with the chinese coof there have been a lot of first time gun buyers these past two years, the clerks are more or less used to it. Get a state ID, and go to your local gun store. Get the attention of a clerk and let them know your a first time buyer, and you have a budget of... Whatever you have to spend on it. Save a hundred to buy a holster and ammo, or strap and ammo. They will show you some guns and probably let you feel them. See how it feels in your hand. It should point naturally and be comfortable. Depending on budget there are many choices, including a hundred dollar .22lr revolver (heritage rough rider) We were all new once and the only way to join the club is mastering your fear and walking in. Best of luck, and if you need further help let me know.

Would it be easy to acquire firearms in shtf with only an angle grinder to get in?

>>617 No, anon trying to break into the home of someone with guns, using a loud as shit fucking angle grinder, during a period of societal collapse when law enforcement is non existent is a terrible fucking idea for reasons to numerous and obvious to really be worth listing. So lets do that anyway. 1. You will die. 2. You will definitely die. 3. There isn't a snowballs hope in hell of having even a lick of success. 4. See 1. 5. Just buy a fucking gun anon. They are cheap, available in every single town in America, most are reliable, and doing so avoids thinking retardation such as this.

>>677 I f I lived in a place like America, I would have held a gun before. As it stands I have only seen them on the hips of officers, and I would ensure the gun Smith was not there while I did it. I should have been more specific and asked if the parts are kept out or is the safe angle grinder proof.

Alternatively I guess I could just become a gunsmith myself, but then I would have to go through a bunch of stuff. Self defence isn't a viable reason for owning a gun here.

how to i drill a barrel and fsb for tapper pins

>>280 May you provide a guide on how to make a homemade suppressor that could fit a gun that uses .45 ACP caliber (subsonic), i. e. that would fit something like a FNX-45 Tactical, HK45, MARK 23 or USP?

>>1052 The hard part is the Nielson booster. Making a suppressor for a modern pistol with a tilting barrel is a real pain in the ass. You'd be best served ordering an "80%" kit from one of the reputable places (not a "fuel filter") and ordering one of the 80% boosters that such companies make. Then you file your Form 1 (e-file takes like a month now) and you're good to go. Most of them can be finished with just a drill press.

>>1053 Hmm, k thx. Btw, what project that you worked on was the hardest or the most time consuming?

Mind explaining to a non-physicsburger: >be pistol >have a fixed chamber oversized/misaligned/whatever by 0.0001th of an inch >be considered unsalvageable junk >be revolver >have a literally moving set of chambers separated from barrel by airgap and misindexed by design by god knows how much, definitely more than 0.0001th of an inch, i assume >have throat diameter larger than the bullet diameter because fuck fitness >have a fucking FORCING CONE to avoid catastrophical failures >be considered compelely acceptable design, accurate even Fucking revolvers, how do they even work without exploding. Or are all others just elitist snobs?

>>1054 Oh man. This one old guy bought one of those Turkish off-brand tactical shotguns for his wife in 20ga. Like a $200.00 gun. Then he brings it to me months later. >He took off the original stock and threw it away >He bought some ATI piece of shit collapsible stock for a totally different gun that he wanted me to adapt to it >He wanted the magazine tube taken off and the internal plug and plug key removed It was a disaster from minute one. Those guns weren't meant to be modified and the company wasn't even in business. <The stock? Every dimension was wrong but he INSISTED on it. I eventually had to design, plot, and mill a custom adapter from aluminum and then the stock bolt was still wrong because it used bizarre Turkish metric threads, so I had to make one of those on the lathe. <The mag tube? Shrink fit at the factory with a shitload of red locktite on it. I completely destroyed the old one just getting it off and had to find a used replacement, which took months to get. Then installing it required a torch, lots of oil, a vicegrip with a cheater, and lots of padding. And then when it was done he whined about how long it took. I told him if I ever saw that gun in my shop again I'd use it for target practice. With my rifles. >>1204 Others are snobs. In reality anything around .001" is acceptable tolerance, and many good guns got away with worse. My lathe can turn at .0005 and that's considered match grade. Revolvers ARE over-built though, for that exact reason. Even the lightweight ones have thicker chamber walls where it matters, and .38spl is only about as powerful as 9mm. The reason Ruger revolvers are so tough is because Ruger staggered the locking notches on the cylinder to get them away from the thinner part of the chamber wall, making the chambers meatier. You can put loads in a Super Blackhawk that would turn a same-caliber Smith and Wesson into a pipe bomb.

>>1210 >The reason Ruger revolvers are so tough is because Ruger staggered the locking notches on the cylinder to get them away from the thinner part of the chamber wall, making the chambers meatier. That's part of it. Part of it is that the K-frame was designed for blackpowder .38 Special ammunition and always had a thin spot on the bottom of the forcing cone. It's a clearance cut for the yoke. At .38 Special pressures, which are, at least with US made ammo, usually way below 20,000 PSI, it's ridiculously overbuilt and will keep on keeping on. .357 Mag ran at 45K+ PSI before SAAMI watered it down to 35K back in the 90s due to a combination of complaints about the K-frame's fragility and the proliferation of J-frame in .357 made in countries that haven't quite figured out municipal drinking water that won't give you cholera. As an example, book max for 158gr cast bullets in .357 used to be eight grains of Unique. In '97 the loading manuals all went down to seven and now most of them are at six and a half. SAAMI max pressure for .357 Magnum is now lower than 9mm, 10mm, .40, or 357 SIG. CIP hasn't changed their pressure limits. You can crack a K-frame's forcing cone with just a little bit of 1970s fullpower .357 Mag ammo with 125gr jacketed bullets--the pressure is at its maximum when the bullet enters the forcing cone, the hard, tough copper jacket smacks the forcing cone much harder, and the police duty ammo with 125gr bullets was loaded absolutely balls to the wall, to do 1500+ out of a 4" revolver. Some forcing cones cracked at less than fifty rounds, some took as much as a few hundred, but none will take that kind of punishment for long, not with that thin spot at the bottom. This is not to say that you can't crack the forcing cone on a Service-Six in .357, but you will have to work at it and it's going to take a while. I've even seen two different GP100s with cracked forcing cones. One was a rental gun at an indoor range and God only knows how many rounds it saw. The other one got a steady diet of 100 rounds a week of old 90s loading manual max loads with 158gr jacketed bullets and Accurate #9. It took him almost a year and a half, though by the time he sent it in for repair work, there was also visible erosion, scoring, and pitting on the front of the cylinder around the chamber throats, too.

>>1211 There was a lot of fucked up forcing cones going around when Hodgdon release Lil'gun. The nitroglycerine content in that shit was so high, the flash was so hot guys were seeing blown cones and measurable topstrap flame cutting in less than 200 rounds with what were supposed to be "standard" loads in .327 and .357. I had looked at loading some of that shit in my .32 Magnum and wound up being very glad I didn't try. Smith 16's are expensive now. Your post is spot on, by the way.

>>1213 And these days you can't be picky about what powder you want to buy, but I agree with your assessment of Li'l Gun. It appears to have been developed for .410 and 28 gauge shotgun ammo and applications in handgun ammunition were an afterthought. For what it's worth I have heard it is fairly well suited to lever action rifles in .357 and .44. Supposedly without a barrel-cylinder gap or forcing cone, it's not abusive to them and it gives fairly good velocities--not great, not amazing, not miraculous--with warm loads using jacketed bullets that are heavy for caliber. Then again, I have also heard claims that pressures Hodgdon lists in their loading manual data do not match the figures people get at independent labs, and the pressures it generates may be well in excess of those listed. And lever action rifles are generally regarded as stronger than revolvers. In some ways they are. But going over around 40K PSI in a toggle-locking lever gun, even one made of good modern steel with modern heat treatment like the Marlins, will beat it up and eventually break something. I have also heard that at least some batches of Li'l Gun are so high in nitroglycerine that some polymer powder measures are eaten up and corroded by it. Weirdly, the plastic Lee uses for their cheapass "Perfect Powder Measure" seems to be immune. Go figure. Another combination that mercilessly beats the shit out of revolvers is H110 or W296--once they were different powders with similar burning rates, now they're the same thing marketed by two different companies with different labels on the package--and jacketed bullets in .357 that are under 140 grains. Yes, shot for shot it doesn't exceed SAAMI max pressure specs, but 110 and 125 grain bullets loaded with the loading manual recipe charges of that stuff will crack a K-frame's forcing cone in very short order. To be fair, this powder was created just after the war for .30 Carbine ammo, and using it for revolver ammo was an afterthought. Of course a lot of propellants are like that. Good ol' Hercules 2400 was created for the .22 Hornet, and it is only a happy coincidence that it works so well in magnum revolver cartridges. Oh well. Do you load for .357? I'm trying to find a decent midrange load using the Hornady 110gr XTP in .357 brass, something loaded to do around 1300 from a 3" or 4" revolver, similar to the old Winchester Border Patrol load. Just playing with Quickload suggests somewhere around nine grains of Unique, give or take, for around 28K PSI. But Quickload works a lot better with bottlenecked rifle cases and rifle length barrels. With handgun length barrels, pistol powders, and straight wall cases, Quickload doesn't always give predictions that are useful. The author has said it was written specifically for centerfire rifle applications, the combustion dynamics are different in straight-wall cases, and he used a model that errs on the side of caution, frequently giving higher pressures and higher velocities than you will see in the real world.

Is it true that making a semi-auto is actually harder than full auto?

>>1214 There's a reason the old farts called them "110 screamers." I did used to load for .357 but you're talking years ago, and what I loaded was for a Security Six. IIRC I was using XTPs and Bullseye, but my memory may be off. I mainly used to load .45 and a shitload of match .308. >>1223 Yes, but only because open bolt semi-autos are banned too. Open bolt SMGs are piss-easy to make, and an open bolt semi is just that + 1 piece.

How would you improve the lutty SMG while keeping it easy to manufacture and cheap?

Is this the reloading thread? I just got some Titegroup because it was the only thing in stock at the place I went to, and the only powder I've seen in months here. I was going to use it in 9mm, since there's 9mm data on the label. Was thinking of: random range brass, lol 115gr Berry's plated 4.3-4.5 grains Titegroup 1.150" OAL with a medium to heavy taper crimp From what I can find online it looks like this might be a starting load or just a bit above it, though with Hodgdon's data using 115gr jacketed bullets, there's only a tiny tiny distance between the starting load and max with Titegroup--4.3gr start, 4.8gr max. I am trying for that OAL because I want to keep pressures down, and because with roundnose FMJ I make the assumption that most guns like 'em loaded long, so long as they don't go into the rifling. The gun is an old Ruger P85. I don't know yet how much leade there is in front of the chamber. These bullets are a bit short and there will only be about .150" still inside the case at that OAL, but that's the same as 90gr XTPs loaded to .955" in .380, and maybe giving it a heavy crimp will help hold it in place and prevent setback. I know Titegroup is dirty as FUCK and I know this charge is tiny and I'm going to have to check every individual case to make sure I don't double-charge. The only primers I've got right now are old Winchester WSPM that were stored in a container that got water damaged. I know, I know. I hope I don't get too many duds. But there are no small pistol primers or even small rifle primers to be had right now at any price where I live, and it's use them up or pay $20 a box for fifty rounds of lacquered Tula steelcase at the range counter. The powder charge is light but I hope not too light to cycle the gun. With factory ammo the P85 likes to sling brass into the next county. I should probably put an extra power recoil spring in it to calm it down a li'l bit. I also used to load a lot of .45 ACP. 200gr H&G wadcutters loaded to 1.245" with five and a half grains of Bullseye. It's a full power load equivalent to hardball, for power factor 185 or so. It cycled and fed perfectly in an old Colt and made nice neat round holes in the target. An XD didn't like it so much, but XDs don't like SWC ammo a bit.

If anyone's still around, I'm trying to replace the extractor in a Ruger P85. I was getting double-feed stoppages. The gun came with one unmarked mystery mag. I got Mec-Gars. No change. It felt really rough cycling the slide and the recoil spring guide was an aluminum casting, really pitted and scratched. I replaced it with a stainless steel one I found on eBay. It cycles smoother but reliability did not improve. I detail stripped the slide and cleaned it, cleaned up some burrs that were in and around the safety recess in the slide, lubed everything with white lithium grease, and put it back together. The old extractor is rough as hell, it looks like something that was cast in a sand mold. It's very hard to get the extractor out, and a lot harder to get it back in. After I put it back together reliability got a lot worse. Previously I was getting maybe one or two double-feeds in fifty rounds. Now I can't shoot three rounds in a row out of it without a double-feed. I don't know if the extractor seated properly, but I'm afraid of breaking it. I got a replacement--well, it's for a stainless P89, but supposedly they're interchangeable. On the replacement extractor the shaft and stem and locating pin look similar, but the bend is in a different place and the extractor hook will be about 1/16" further from the bore axis if it drops in the same place with the same clearance, almost as if this were a .40 extractor instead of 9mm. And I cannot get the replacement in. I have been working from these. They're for the P89 and P90 but the designs are almost identical. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgD1m8O9gDk https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frmryu5rH9c https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDHQgcFe660 I cannot get the new extractor into the slide. Just looking at it I am speculating that the factory used some kind of fixture. I know that in the videos the guy just levers them into place with a flimsy little hollow plastic mechanical pencil, but nope. I think that the slide needs to be clamped in a vise on a heavy workbench. And one guy is going to have to use some kind of brass tool, like maybe a brass punch filed down into a screwdriver shape, to press the end of the extractor out to about 1/4" outside the right side of the slide. And another guy is going to have to take his biggest brass punch and a baby sledge and absolutely smash the fuck out of the tip of the extractor to force it in, just whale on it until it goes in and the little pin on the extractor snaps into the detent hole in the slide. There is a lot to like about the P85 but making them easy to work on never appears to have crossed Bill Ruger's mind. https://www.rugerforum.com/threads/ruger-p85-extractor-replacement.224668/#post-2246877 says replacement extractors require fitting, but there are no details about where he ground the metal off it to make it fit. The rear end doesn't seem excessive in size. When I turn it around the other way to test if it's too thick by putting it in with the extractor hook pointed out of the slide, it drops right in and the safety rotates freely, so if the rear end is oversized, it's not hugely so. Anybody ever work on one of these?

>>280 > I'm a professional gunsmith, ask me anything. Are you also a cute lesbian bounty hunter and sports car snob? This is very important information.

Could you explain how modern button rifling works? I've seen older guides mention having to stress relieve the barrel after rifling it, but more recent videos demonstrating it don't mention it and I don't know if it's no longer necessary to do over better tech or they just neglect it

Another question about chambers and chambering. How long does it take, on average, to chamber a rifled gun barrel? Individual custom gun, or in serial production line. As long as it's the usual method, with lathe, some common handgun/rifle tolerances, not benchrest autism with absulutely zero runout. I have been reading these stories about chambering a single barrel taking several hours, not counting the boring and rifling, chambering only. And that reaming by hand reamer would take weeks with same formula, aka. full 8h work day in lathe. What the hell are these people doing, are they grinding a single atom layer per turn and work hardening the bit instead of cutting, or is this some sort of inside joke I just didn't get? I thought it would take a minute or two to cut, maybe a bit more to center the lathe. Please educate, Also, how much do you consider acceptable off-bore runout for pistol and rifle chambers, respectively (again, not benchrest, but the average production sample). Thanks.

>>280 I second this >>1317

I am pondering a side-by-side "coach gun" type shotgun, as a range toy. I want one with exposed hammers, something similar to a Colt 1878, but of course not a collectors' item costing more than my truck. I am seeing approximately jack and shit in local gun stores, and not much more than that on Gunbroker. I don't want to spend an excessive amount of money. I'm not going to drop twelve bills on a CZ Sharptail or a Taylor Hartford to scratch this itch. I was looking at an "American Gun Company" double that looks decent and isn't Damascus steel, but research raised a bunch of questions. It was the house brand of a hardware store chain that went out of business a hundred years ago or more. Most of the guns were made by Crescent in Connecticut and were cheap-ish but mostly solid, by the standards of the place and time. But the hardware store imported some batches of very similar looking shotguns from Belgium and put their rollmark on them, and those seem to have been basically pipe bomb quality. And given its age it might have 2 1/2" or 2 5/8" or 2 9/16" chambers. If it's going to cost an shitton of money to recut the chambers, over and above shortening the barrels and reinstalling the bead, there's no point. I'm not willing to spend CZ Sharptail money on a Belgian pipe bomb that might blind me or blow my hands off on the third shot. There were Chinese coach guns imported very briefly, which have a very poor reputation with the CAS crowd, but not any more, and they all seem to have vanished from Gunbroker and every other auction site. tl;dr want exposed hammer coach gun, not willing to pay four figures for CZ, wat do?