>>17510
Story is a bit suspect, but not impossible.
Most deer won't come near a person, even hiding, since they will hear and smell them from a good distance out. The only way to really get them to do that is to place a bunch of unwashed and washed clothes and scent up an area you've been baiting for a while. Washed should get them used to your detergent, and unwashed is for your scent. And even then, they're just as likely to abandon the feeding area as stay and acclimate.
As for catching a deer, it's a hellish experience. Bucks will try to fuck you up, especially in rutting season, so you're best releasing them and having a gun at the ready in case they turn on you. While rare, as most will run if you're giving distance, some will occasionally turn on you.
As for how, I have a lot of methods. Some are easy for an average person, others much harder. Being in the wildlife field, I get a bit better access to supplies and methods than most. In all cases, a thick set of outdoor clothes is a must, as deer have wickedly sharp hooves and a kick can gut you like a fish if it hits right. I suggest hunting overalls and a padded cotton jacket. Ideally, a cheap motorcycle helmet to protect your face as well. Yes, you will be miserable in the summer if you do it then, but fall is the best time since they're in rut and easier to locate due to travelling so much.
One of the easiest for both professionals, and others, is a clover trap. Not cheap to buy or make, but extremely effective. Bad catches can be easily set free, while the ones you want can be pressed down and tied. They're mainly used for tagging single deer, and are labor intensive to check. Check twice a day, dawn and dusk. Bait with feed in a clearing deer frequent.
Another one pros use is a drop net with blast caps. Four to eight poles in a square, with blast caps and a remote detonator. Usually in a field or pasture, and most often baited. This one is a royal pain in the ass, and every failed catch is a full reset and waiting. Unlike a clover trap, you have to be watching and ready to trigger it and rush in. I hate working with these. When I did it privately, I used a remote trail cam to alert me when motion was detected. It was only a few hundred yards from my house, so I'd get to the door with a set of thick paracord and pop it. I did that a few times, and it was just a pain in the ass. Doable privately, but expensive and too annoying to suggest.
Last major pro one, and it's tranqs. Ignoring the ethical issues, we use this occasionally and most often for relocation. But can it be used? Not really. Unless you've got a good vet hookup and willing to invest in a tranq rifle, along with learning to dose it, you're going to be SOL. Since I'm in industry I can do this, but it's not really worth it. It has not insignificant costs over time(new darts, new meds, etc), even if you can get everything lined up.
Okay, now the cheap options.
A foot trap can work. You'll want to do untoothed, since you don't want to shatter their legs. In general terms, coyote strength is usually enough, but you may need to step up a level if they keep slipping. As usual, you bait an area and place it. You'll want a deep tie in the ground, preferably one of those drill shaped ones. A straight rod can often be pulled out, especially after a rain or in a muddy area. Not really suggested due to risk of injury to the deer, but less than a hundred bucks. Check twice a day, possibly more. A trail cam helps.
Alternatively, various types of foot and leg snares are actually very effective. If you dig a narrow, shallow hole, a little over a foot deep and about 4-5 inches wide, and put a snare loop over it, it's very effective. Some sticks around the edges can make it slower to escape, giving a higher catch rate. This should slip up above their ankle joint before tightening, giving a knob to stay caught on. I use a high strength paracord that's a bit thicker than a pencil, which is easy to work with. Tied the other end to a tree, and ideally have a few holes in your baited area. I've managed to catch two does at once this way. Check at least twice a day.
I do not recommend neck snares, since they are easy to mess up and kill a deer with if you don't know what you're doing. You can get them with features that stop them from tightening all the way down, and homemade ones can do this with a simple knot in the line. Problem is, too tight and they die, and too loose and they get free. It's a fine line, and takes a lot of attempts to narrow the range into the safe catch area. If you do this, always have a set of deer tags ready in case of lethality, and plug them from a distance once you get them free from the snare to make it less obvious. A game warden who actually gives a damn will be able to tell if they choose to inspect, but most don't care as long as you have the tags and tried to make it less obvious. That, and you will probably butcher it long before they find out. Again, do not do this unless you are already a hunter, willing to butcher it, and understand the lethality inherent to neck snares.
Walk in nets are another cheap-ish option. Get some thick woven deer netting, and set it on a deer trail hung by thin fishing line, roughly in an open box shape. Ideally right behind a place they have to duck on the trail, so they lower their head and walk into it. Once they walk in, they'll often try to jump out of surprise, ripping the fishing line and wrapping them in it. Get a motion detecting trail cam with remote access, and point it at the net. Always be home when doing this, as if it pops you need to motor to the point and deal with it immediately. If you don't, predators can easily get them before you do. I will warn, this is way more likely to catch bucks since the antlers will tangle easily.
An expensive but simple option is a dog kennel with woven metal fencing. You need one with a spring loaded door, preferably with a set of airlock style gates if possible. It will work with single gate, but you have to be a bit faster. Set it up in a clearing you've been baiting, with the door open but locked in place. Place bait inside and outside, and give them a few weeks or months to get used to it. Once you're seeing consistent deer tracks inside, set up a basic tripwire to close the gate. Now you can release undesired bucks easily, and acclimate does you catch with minimal risk to you or them. Predators can still be a risk, since some will be willing to dig or climb over, but it's not usually a problem for me. This is an expensive, long term investment, so not for the faint of heart. Kennels can run a pretty penny, especially for large ones.
Pit traps are not useful. You have to dig super deep or have something to close off the top, or they just jump out. More a survival tool than a live catch method. Too much work for no real return.
The last method is ethically dubious and has a high fatality rate, and that's infant capture. I want to be clear, I do not encourage this method for many reasons, but I am including it for informational purposes. If you find a fawn, usually late May through June, and it's either extremely young or weak, they can be caught easily. If they are healthy and a few weeks old, they can easily bolt and outrun a person before disappearing into the brush. The issue is that they will have around a 60% survival, even if cared for perfectly. They will be finnicky, needy, panicked things. I have rehabbed a male at a facility, once, and even in professional care he was rife with health issues. The only reason he survived was the fact it was a professional setting. But they act like cats, and they can be super sweet. But they are prone to many health issues when raised in captivity that anyone who isn't trained just can't handle. If they survive to adulthood, they're basically a giant cat that has an instinct to randomly travel 200+ miles and may just up and disappear. Aside from the ethical issues of capturing an infant animal that has a high captive fatality when captured, it's also just straight up a pain to find them at the right age unless you have IR handheld cams. Healthy ones are hard AF to find, so most that you find will be sick. Even further reducing survival rates.
Alternatively to actual catch methods, you can also just find them stuck in fences sometimes. If it's in a private area where nobody will see, you can start on the capture proper from there. Some places also just let you, you know, buy one. And that goes for many exotics as well. Some places require more stringent permit requirements, others it's a free for all depending on the species of animal. If you can just outright buy one, and the requirements are easy for you to meet, do that. It's more ethical, less of a risk to the doe and to you, and a lot more of a longterm relationship.
Now, once you have a doe caught, it's still a pain. They're naturally timid and prone to panic, and scaring them too much can straight up kill them. Even professional tagging has high fatality rates, as high as 30% in two months. Their bodies are not good at being panicked for more than a minute, and their muscles will essentially die. This includes, critically, the heart muscles. Because of this, calming them down is the single most important thing you have to do. In the wildlife field, we often bag their heads as our opening move during restraint. Pin and bag, in that order. A t-shirt or hoodie works well for this. Once they're bagged, they calm down very quickly most of the time, but some will still struggle. If you do a more open trap, like the kennel, you can acclimate them to you slowly, even over the course of days or weeks.
Alright, now the fun stuff. Yes, does can turn super horny in a heartbeat. A lot of them will take a downward pose once you start, as seen in the above video and the greentext. Once they know you're not a threat, they're surprisingly sweet and very accommodating to our, shall we say, desires of peculiar predilection. Despite having needle dicks on the bucks, a doe can easily take a human male of even particularly large sizes. I've even used toys on them to test, and they can take a shockingly large insertion when compared to male deer. As long as you aren't overly rough, which is hard with a doe, they will pretty much let you do anything you want. The greentext is accurate, in that once you start they are game to go all day, especially in rutting season. Out of rut they can get tired after a couple goes, but will still often let you keep going even if they are less active participants.
It's been a few years since I did any trapping due to a move, but rut is coming up and I might have another go at it this year. The old trails are still there, and I know a clearing they like to visit.